In Greek mythology, Narcissus fell deeply in love with his reflection. Consumed by longing, he wasted away and died by the water’s edge.
Such a sad story. Everyone knows a Narcissus or two.
You’ll be glad to know that the Narcissus in your SoCal garden won’t die by the water’s edge, though these cool-weather flowers may need a little extra TLC. To be safe, let’s call them “daffodils.”
Origins of the Daffodil
Daffodils, known botanically as Narcissus, are native to the meadows and woods of Southern Europe and North Africa. They belong to the amaryllis family and have been cultivated for centuries.
These hardy bulbs symbolize rebirth and new beginnings. While they’re famously associated with the rolling hills of England, many varieties can adapt to warmer climates with a bit of help.
Daffodils in various stages of growth.
Optimal Growing Conditions
Light
- Daffodils need at least six hours of direct sunlight each day.
- In Southern California, the afternoon sun can be intense. Planting them where they get morning sun and some afternoon shade can prevent them from scorching.
Temperature
- Most daffodils need a “chilling period” of 12–16 weeks at temperatures between 35-45°F to trigger blooming.
- Since SoCal winters are mild, you may need to pre-chill your bulbs in a paper bag in the refrigerator. Keep them away from fruits like apples, which release ethylene gas that can ruin the bulbs.
Soil
- Daffodils hate “wet feet.” They’re prone to rot if left in waterlogged soil.
- Aim for a sandy or loamy soil. If you have heavy clay soil, amend it with organic matter like compost to improve drainage.
- The soil should be slightly acidic to neutral, with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0.
Best Low-Chill Varieties for SoCal
Daffodils typically bloom in late winter to early spring, depending on the variety and local climate. Southern California gardeners can expect them to start flowering as early as January and continue through March.
Cooler temperatures often prolong the bloom, while unseasonably warm weather may cause earlier flowering. To ensure a consistent display, consider planting a mix of early, mid, and late-season varieties.
‘Ice Follies’
- A popular and dependable variety with large, creamy white petals and a frilly yellow cup that fades to white.
- Chill requirement: About 6–8 weeks.
- Bloom season: Early to mid-spring (February–March in SoCal).
Narcissus ‘Ice Follies’ – A large-cupped daffodil with creamy-white petals and a broad, pale-yellow cup that matures to white.
‘Carlton’
- Known for its classic daffodil look with golden-yellow petals and a large, frilly cup. It’s also fragrant.
- Chill requirement: 6–8 weeks.
- Bloom season: Mid-spring (March).
Narcissus ‘Carlton’ – A classic golden-yellow large-cupped daffodil, known for its vigorous growth and light fragrance.
‘Thalia’
- Often called the “Orchid Narcissus,” this variety produces multiple pure white, fragrant flowers per stem.
- Chill requirement: 8–10 weeks.
- Bloom season: Mid- to late-spring (March–April in SoCal).
Narcissus ‘Thalia’ – A graceful triandrus daffodil with clusters of pure white, star-like, fragrant flowers.
‘Geranium’
- A multi-flowering variety with white petals and a small, bright orange-red cup. It has a strong, sweet scent.
- Chill requirement: 4–6 weeks.
- Bloom season: Mid- to late-spring (March–April).
‘Paperwhites’ (Narcissus papyraceus)
- These don’t require chilling and can be grown indoors in water or in soil for fragrant winter blooms.
- Bloom season: Mid-winter (December–January in SoCal, if planted in fall).
Paperwhites (Narcissus papyraceus) – A tender, highly fragrant Mediterranean species often grown indoors.
Steps for Planting
In the Garden
- The best time to plant daffodils in Southern California is from late October to December, after the soil has cooled.
- Loosen the soil to a depth of about 12 inches. Mix in a few inches of compost to improve fertility and drainage.
- Dig holes about 6 inches deep. As a rule of thumb, the depth should be three times the bulb’s height.
- Space bulbs are about 4–6 inches apart, which gives them room to multiply over the years.
- Place the bulb in the hole with the pointed end facing up. Don’t worry if you get it wrong; the shoot usually reaches the surface.
- Cover the bulbs with soil, gently patting it down. Water the area thoroughly to settle the soil and encourage root growth.
A gardener plants daffodil bulbs outdoors.
In Pots
- Select a pot with adequate drainage holes. Ensure the size accommodates the growth of the bulbs and their root systems.
- Use a high-quality, well-draining potting mix. To enhance drainage, add sand or perlite.
- To improve drainage, place a layer of gravel or broken pottery pieces at the bottom of the pot.
- Add potting mix halfway up the pot, leaving enough room for the bulbs and additional soil.
- Place the bulbs in the soil with their pointed ends facing up. Space them about 1–2 inches apart, depending on the pot’s size.
- Add more potting mix to cover the bulbs, leaving about an inch between the soil surface and the pot’s rim for watering. Gently press the soil down.
- Water the pot until moisture comes out of the drainage holes. This helps settle the soil and kickstart root growth.
- Place the pot in a sunny location that matches the bulbs’ light requirements. Adjust the position based on the changing light during the growing season.
Planting daffodils in containers gives you the flexibility to move them away from harsh conditions.
Daffodil Plant Care
Once your daffodils are in the ground, they are relatively low-maintenance. Here’s how to keep them healthy:
Water
- Keep the soil consistently moist — but not soggy — while the plants grow and bloom in the spring.
- Reduce watering after the flowers fade. The bulbs go dormant in the summer and prefer dry conditions.
Fertilizer
- Mix a balanced, low-nitrogen fertilizer or bone meal into the soil at the bottom of the planting hole.
- Once shoots emerge, you can apply a light feeding of a bulb-specific fertilizer to support flower development.
Pests & Diseases
- Daffodils are generally pest-resistant and are toxic to most animals, including squirrels and gophers. However, watch for slugs and snails and use natural deterrents like eggshells or copper strips.
- Some common daffodil diseases include bulb rot, leaf scorch, and mosaic virus. To prevent these issues, ensure proper drainage, avoid over-watering, and promptly remove any infected plants.
Pruning
- After the flowers fade, snip them off to prevent the plant from putting energy into seed production.
- Don’t cut back the green leaves after blooming. Allow them to photosynthesize and store energy in the bulb for next year’s flowers. Wait until the foliage turns yellow and dies naturally, which usually takes about six weeks.
Sprouting daffodil plants in the garden.
Propagation
- Daffodils multiply by producing smaller offset bulbs.
- Every 3–5 years, you can dig up the clumps after the foliage has died back, separate the bulbs, and replant them to create more flowers.
Storing Bulbs for Next Season
In Southern California, it’s often best to dig up daffodil bulbs and store them for the summer after the foliage has died back. This lets you control the chilling process and ensures they don’t rot in warm, irrigated soil.
- Carefully dig up the bulbs with a garden fork.
- Gently brush off the soil and let them cure in a warm, dry, shady spot for a few weeks until the outer skin is papery.
- Place the bulbs in a mesh or paper bag and store them in a cool, dark, and dry place (like a garage) until it’s time to chill them in the fall.
More Gardening Tips
- Plant daffodil bulbs in the fall before the first frost to give them enough time to establish roots before winter.
- Deadhead spent flowers to encourage reblooming next season.
- Consider planting different varieties with varying bloom times to extend your daffodil display throughout the spring.
- Cut daffodils make beautiful and long-lasting bouquets, but leave at least half of the foliage intact to store energy for next year’s growth.
- Daffodil bulbs are also an excellent option for container gardening on patios or porches.
- If you live in an area with mild winters, consider planting daffodils in late winter for early spring blooms.
FAQs: Growing Daffodils
Q: Why do my daffodil bulbs need to be chilled?
Most daffodil varieties require a period of cold temperatures to break dormancy and trigger the flowering process. This cold period mimics the winter conditions of their native habitats.
Q: Can I leave my daffodil bulbs in the ground year-round in SoCal?
You can, but blooming may become unreliable over time. The ground doesn’t get cold enough for a consistent chilling period, and summer watering for other plants can cause the dormant bulbs to rot.
Q: What’s the best type of pot for growing daffodils?
A terracotta or clay pot is a good choice because it’s porous and allows for better soil aeration, which helps prevent waterlogging. Ensure any pot you use has drainage holes.
Q: How many bulbs should I plant in a single pot?
For a full, lush display, plant bulbs close together, about 1–2 inches apart. A 12-inch wide pot comfortably holds 10-12 daffodil bulbs.
Q: Why are my daffodils only producing leaves and no flowers?
This is known as “blindness” and can be caused by several factors: planting bulbs too shallowly, insufficient sunlight, or not enough nutrients. It can also happen if the foliage was cut back too soon the previous year.
Q: Are daffodils toxic to pets?
Yes, all parts of the daffodil plant are toxic to cats and dogs, especially the bulb. The toxins can cause severe gastrointestinal issues if ingested.
Q: How long do daffodil blooms last?
The flowers typically last two to three weeks, depending on the variety and weather conditions. Cooler temperatures will help prolong the blooming period.
Q: Can I grow daffodils indoors?
Yes, you can “force” bulbs to bloom indoors in pots with soil or in a vase with water and pebbles. Paperwhites are especially popular for indoor growing during the winter.