Whether grown indoors or out, all orchids require roughly the same care. Of the many species and hybrid orchids, the most familiar types are cattleya, cymbidium, and paphiopedilum, which are the corsage types.
Temperature & Humidity
Thirty to fifty percent humidity is enough for most orchids. Place your potted orchid on a pan or clay saucer filled with gravel to humidify. Small-sized gravel is best. Add just enough water to keep the gravel moist. Don’t let the bottom of the pot sit in water.
Most dwarf orchid varieties do well indoors, as they require less humidity.
Ideal temperatures are close to that of the average home — 60 to 65 degrees at night and 65 to 80 degrees during the day.
A flower spike of cream-colored orchid blooms.
Potting Orchids
Clay pots, wire baskets, or small redwood tubs work well for home growing.
Orchids growing in 5, 6, 7, or 8-inch pots will probably need repotting every eighteen months. Orchids in larger containers will have to be repotted every three years. Be sure your pot or container has a large drain hole. Fill the bottom one-third of the pot with well-washed broken or chipped pottery.
Medium-sized fir bark is fast becoming the most popular orchid planting material. Do not use soil. Osmunda (tree fern fiber) contains more nutrients than fir bark but is more difficult to use in potting. Soak it in water for several hours when repotting with Osmunda for easier handling.
When you pull an orchid from an old pot, remove as much of the old potting mixture as possible, being careful not to damage the orchid’s root system. Next, cut off all dead or partially dead roots (they will be black or brown) to live tissue, which is white. Position the plant in the new pot and slowly work the fresh bark in and around the root system until all roots are covered. Water well.
Watering Orchids
There is no single rule for watering orchids. Small pots dry out faster than larger ones. Any time you are in doubt, do not water. The plant is fine as long as the bark in the pots seems moist or damp. When you do water, water slowly and thoroughly until water comes out of the drain well. Keep surplus water away from the pot.
Misting Your Orchid Plant
Mist your orchids daily, if possible. Do this early in the day so that leaves and stems will be dry by nightfall when light intensity is low. Misting early in the day will help you avoid most fungus problems.
Fertilizing Orchids
Use regular orchid plant food beginning in March. Continue through September. Once each month is enough if you wet the planting medium well when watering.
Insects & Fungus
Insects of any kind might infest your orchids. Watch them closely and spray them if needed. Wipe off scale insects with a damp cloth. Consult your Anawalt Garden Center professional for all current recommendations.
For fungus and mildew, spray with Bordeaux mixture (copper sulfate and lime).
A inflorescence of white orchid blossoms.
Whether grown indoors or out, all orchids require roughly the same care. Of the many species and hybrid orchids, the most familiar types are cattleya, cymbidium, and paphiopedilum, which are the corsage types.
Temperature & Humidity
Thirty to fifty percent humidity is enough for most orchids. Place your potted orchid on a pan or clay saucer filled with gravel to humidify. Small-sized gravel is best. Add just enough water to keep the gravel moist. Don’t let the bottom of the pot sit in water.
Most dwarf orchid varieties do well indoors, as they require less humidity.
Ideal temperatures are close to that of the average home — 60 to 65 degrees at night and 65 to 80 degrees during the day.
Potting Orchids
Clay pots, wire baskets, or small redwood tubs work well for home growing.
Orchids growing in 5, 6, 7, or 8-inch pots will probably need repotting every eighteen months. Orchids in larger containers will have to be repotted every three years. Be sure your pot or container has a large drain hole. Fill the bottom one-third of the pot with well-washed broken or chipped pottery.
Medium-sized fir bark is fast becoming the most popular orchid planting material. Do not use soil. Osmunda (tree fern fiber) contains more nutrients than fir bark but is more difficult to use in potting. Soak it in water for several hours when repotting with Osmunda for easier handling.
When you pull an orchid from an old pot, remove as much of the old potting mixture as possible, being careful not to damage the orchid’s root system. Next, cut off all dead or partially dead roots (they will be black or brown) to live tissue, which is white. Position the plant in the new pot and slowly work the fresh bark in and around the root system until all roots are covered. Water well.
Watering Orchids
There is no single rule for watering orchids. Small pots dry out faster than larger ones. Any time you are in doubt, do not water. The plant is fine as long as the bark in the pots seems moist or damp. When you do water, water slowly and thoroughly until water comes out of the drain well. Keep surplus water away from the pot.
Variegated orchids on a flower spike.
Misting Your Orchid Plant
Mist your orchids daily, if possible. Do this early in the day, so that leaves and stems will be dry by nightfall when light intensity is low. Misting early in the day will help you avoid most fungus problems.
Fertilizing Orchids
Use regular orchid plant food beginning in March. Continue through September. Once each month is enough if you wet the planting medium well when watering.
Insects & Fungus
Insects of any kind might infest your orchids. Watch them closely and spray them if needed. Wipe off scale insects with a damp cloth. Consult your Anawalt Garden Center professional for all current recommendations.
For fungus and mildew, spray with Bordeaux mixture (copper sulfate and lime).
FAQs about Orchid Care
Q: How often should I water my orchids?
A: Water your orchids every 5 to 12 days, depending on the climate and the potting medium. Allow the potting mix to dry slightly between waterings.
Q: What’s the right way to water orchids?
A: Water orchids thoroughly, allowing water to drain out of the bottom of the pot. Avoid letting the plant sit in standing water, and ensure the roots aren’t constantly wet.
Q: What’s the best location for my orchids?
A: Orchids thrive in bright, indirect sunlight. A spot near a window with sheer curtains or an east-facing window is ideal.
Q: How do I know if my orchid’s getting enough light?
A: If an orchid’s leaves are deep green, it might be underexposed. Ideally, orchid leaves should be a lighter, grassy green, which indicates adequate light exposure.
Q: When is the right time to repot orchids?
A: Repot orchids every 2 to 3 years, or when the potting medium starts to decompose. Repotting is best done in the spring after the plant has bloomed.
Q: What type of potting mix should I use for orchids?
A: Use a specific orchid potting mix of bark chips, sphagnum moss, and perlite. This ensures adequate drainage and airflow to the roots.
Q: How can I make my orchid rebloom?
A: Ensuring proper care — sufficient light, regular watering, and occasional fertilizing — will help your orchid rebloom. Also, a slight reduction in temperature at night can stimulate blooming.
Q: How often should I fertilize my orchids?
A: Fertilize your orchids lightly every 2-4 weeks during the growing season with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer, reducing frequency in the winter.
Q: Why are my orchid’s leaves turning yellow?
A: Yellow leaves can indicate several issues, including overwatering, under-watering, or too much direct sunlight. Assess the conditions and adjust accordingly.