Growing Cherry Tomatoes in a Hot Climate

The wild ancestor of the cherry tomato originated in the coastal regions of Peru and Ecuador. These tiny, berry-sized fruits were tough and adaptable. Over centuries, wild tomatoes were domesticated and cultivated across Central and South America.

Spanish explorers introduced tomatoes to Europe in the 16th century. At first, they were grown as ornamental plants, due to questions about their edibility. It wasn’t until the 18th and 19th centuries that tomatoes gained popularity in cooking. Imagine 17th-century pizza without tomatoes. Che peccato!

Plant breeders in the 1970s developed modern cherry tomato varieties by crossbreeding wild tomatoes with domesticated ones, creating the sweet, resilient fruit we enjoy today.

Best Heat-Tolerant Varieties

High temperatures can stress cherry tomato plants, but with the right variety and approach, you can cultivate sweet, juicy tomatoes all summer.

Sweet 100

This classic variety produces long clusters of incredibly sweet, red cherry tomatoes. It’s a vigorous, indeterminate plant that bears fruit until the first frost.

Sweet 100 is a prolific cherry tomato bursting with clusters of small, super-sweet, bite-sized fruits.

Sun Gold

Sun Gold yields golden-orange tomatoes with a tropical, fruity flavor. It’s highly productive and shows excellent resistance to cracking, even in hot weather.

Sun Gold is a golden-orange cherry tomato known for its intense sweetness and tropical, fruity flavor.

Black Cherry

The Black Cherry tomato develops deep purple, almost black, fruits with a rich, complex flavor. This variety is also indeterminate and handles heat well.

Black Cherry tomatoes offer a rich, smoky-sweet, complex flavor.

Juliet

Juliet is a determinate variety with glossy red tomatoes. Because of its grape-like shape, it’s often called a “mini Roma.” It’s highly resistant to cracking and diseases, making it a reliable choice for hot climates.

Mini Roma are small, oblong cherry tomatoes with meaty flesh and low acidity, perfect for sauces and roasting.

Yellow Pear

This heirloom variety produces small, pear-shaped yellow tomatoes with a mild, sweet flavor. It’s a productive and heat-tolerant plant.

Guess why they’re called “Yellow Pear.” These distinctively-shaped yellow tomatoes have a mild, slightly tangy sweetness.

Determinant vs. Indeterminate Tomato Plants

• Determinate tomato plants (bush type) grow to a fixed size, usually 3–4 feet tall. They set most of their fruit at once and then stop producing. They’re excellent for container gardening or if you want a big harvest for canning.
• Indeterminate tomato plants (vining type) keep growing, flowering, and setting fruit all season until frost. They can reach 6–12+ feet tall and need staking or caging. Choose indeterminate plants if you want a steady supply of tomatoes over time.

Optimal Growing Conditions

Light

• Cherry tomatoes need at least 6-8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
• In the intense heat of Southern California, morning sun is ideal.
• Position your plants where they can receive some afternoon shade to protect them from the harshest rays.

Temperature

• Cherry tomatoes grow best in temperatures between 70°F and 85°F (21°C to 29°C).
• Heat-tolerant varieties can handle higher temperatures, but prolonged exposure to temperatures above 90°F (32°C) can prevent fruit formation.
• Use shade cloth during heatwaves to regulate the temperature around your plants.

Soil

• Cherry tomatoes prefer well-draining, fertile soil rich in organic matter.
• A sandy loam soil with a pH between 6.0 and 6.8 is ideal.
• Before planting, amend your soil with compost or well-rotted manure to improve its structure and nutrient content.
• Good drainage is crucial to prevent root rot.

Young tomato plants with twine for support.

Steps for Planting

1. Start seeds indoors 6–8 weeks before the last expected frost date.
2. Before planting seedlings outdoors, gradually acclimate them to outside conditions over 7–10 days. Start with a few hours of dappled sun and gradually increase their exposure.
3. Dig a hole deep enough to bury about two-thirds of the plant’s stem. This encourages a strong root system, as roots will grow from the buried stem.
4. Place the seedling in the hole and backfill with soil. Gently firm the soil around the plant’s base.
5. Water thoroughly after planting to settle the soil and reduce transplant shock.
6. Apply a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch (like straw or shredded leaves) around the base of the plant to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and keep the soil cool.

Growing Cherry Tomatoes in a Pot

1. Use a container that is at least 5 gallons (18 liters) in size with drainage holes. A larger pot provides more room for root growth and retains moisture better.
2. Fill the pot with a high-quality potting mix designed for containers. Don’t use garden soil, which can become compacted and drain poorly.
3. While you can grow indeterminate varieties, determinate (bush) types are often more manageable for container gardening.
4. Even smaller varieties will need a cage or stake for support as they grow and produce fruit.
5. Containers dry out much faster than garden beds, especially in the heat. Check the soil daily and water whenever the top inch feels dry.

Water

• Water your plants deeply at the base, providing about 1–2 inches weekly.
• Avoid overhead watering, which can promote fungal diseases.
• In extreme heat, you may need to water more frequently.
• Using a soaker hose or drip irrigation system efficiently delivers water directly to the roots.

Fertilizer

Cherry tomatoes are heavy feeders.

• Mix a balanced, slow-release organic fertilizer into the soil at planting time.
• Once the plants set fruit, feed them every 2–3 weeks with a liquid fertilizer high in potassium and phosphorus, such as a tomato-specific formula or liquid seaweed.
• Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, which encourage lush foliage at the expense of fruit production.

Cherry tomato plants have their very own pest, the cherry drosophila.

Pests & Diseases

Common pests include aphids, hornworms, spotted-wing drosophila, and spider mites. Regularly inspect your plants and handpick larger pests. You can often wash aphids off with a strong spray of water. For more serious infestations, use insecticidal soap or neem oil.

Common diseases include early blight, late blight, and blossom-end rot. To prevent these:

• Ensure good air circulation by spacing plants properly.
• Water at the base of the plant to keep leaves dry.
• Maintain consistent soil moisture to prevent blossom-end rot caused by a calcium deficiency, often linked to uneven watering.

Harvesting Cherry Tomatoes

Cherry tomatoes are ready to harvest when they have reached their full, rich color and feel firm but not hard.

• Gently twist the fruit until it detaches from the stem, or use pruning shears.
• For the best flavor, harvest in the late afternoon when sugars are most concentrated.
• Regularly harvesting encourages the plant to produce more fruit. Don’t let overripe tomatoes stay on the vine, which can attract pests.

Cherry tomatoes ripening in the garden.

FAQs: Growing Cherry Tomatoes

Q: Why are my cherry tomato plant’s leaves turning yellow?

Yellow leaves can be caused by overwatering, underwatering, or a nutrient deficiency (often nitrogen). Check your soil moisture and adjust your watering schedule. If the soil is consistently soggy, you may be overwatering. If the problem persists, apply a balanced liquid fertilizer.

Q: Why are the flowers on my tomato plant falling off before fruiting?

This is known as blossom drop and is often due to temperature extremes. Consistent temperatures above 90°F (32°C) or below 55°F (13°C) can interfere with pollination. Providing afternoon shade during heatwaves can help.

Q: What is blossom-end rot, and how can I prevent it?

Blossom-end rot appears as a dark, sunken spot on the bottom of the tomato. It’s caused by a calcium deficiency in the fruit, usually due to inconsistent watering. Ensure your plants receive deep, regular watering and maintain a consistent moisture level in the soil with mulch.

Q: How often should I fertilize my cherry tomatoes in pots?

Container-grown tomatoes need more frequent feeding because nutrients leach out with each watering. Once the plant begins to set fruit, fertilize every 1–2 weeks with a balanced liquid fertilizer.

Q: Is it better to use stakes or cages for cherry tomatoes?

Both work well. Cages are easy to install and provide all-around support, which is great for indeterminate varieties. Stakes are a good choice for determinate varieties or if you prefer to prune your plants to a single stem, which can improve air circulation.

Q: Can I save seeds from my cherry tomatoes?

You can save seeds from open-pollinated or heirloom varieties (like Black Cherry or Yellow Pear). You can’t save seeds from hybrid varieties (like Sun Gold or Sweet 100), as they won’t grow true to the parent plant.

Q: How can I protect my tomatoes from birds and other pests?

Bird netting is an effective way to protect your ripening fruit from birds. For ground pests, keeping the garden clean of debris and using organic pest control methods can help.

Q: What does “indeterminate” vs. “determinate” mean?

Indeterminate tomato plants grow as long vines and produce fruit continuously throughout the season until the first frost. Determinate plants are bush-like, grow to a fixed size, and produce their fruit all at once over a few weeks.